Only a few of the descendants of the Madeiran immigrants to Guyana will have ever made it back to the island. The ties are too distant and the memories (if any) too unhappy.
For those that remain, tourism has offered another escape from hardship. It began in the 19th century, with British tuberculosis patients coming for up to six months for a cure. Madeira was also a nice roost for those on long voyages to far-flung corners of the Empire or beyond (both Scott and Shackleton stayed here on their way to Antarctica). But gradually, it became a pleasant holiday spot, only a few days voyage from England, or – after the war – a short flight by flying boat from Southamptom (£95 first class). One of the hotels that prospered was Reid’s Palace (see photo; the pink building), whose guests included Winston Churchill, George Bernard Shaw, Battista, Pik Botha, Dr John Bodkin Adams (after his acquittal on charges of killing 130 old ladies), and Mrs Thatcher. Although the hotel still makes much of these posh (or notorious) connections, the big money these days comes from the Gulf and Russia. You can however still find the odd British diehard, harrumphing by the pool.
Meanwhile, Reids has stiff competition. Funchal, the capital, is now steeped in hotels of all descriptions. Some are old wine quintas, lavished with old English antiques. Others are monsters, like human shopping malls. Then there are the cruise ships. In December alone, 52 cruise ships called by, each carrying up to 4,000 people each. For a moment each day, the population of Funchal is utterly transformed by these visitors. It’s almost as if a new town has floated into its midst.
